Srikaktilam District THE HEADQUARTERS of Andhra Pradesh’s northernmost district, Srikakulam is located on the banks of the Swarnaniukhi river. On the outskirts of the town, at Arasavalli, is a sun temple, ingeniously constructed at such an angle that the sun’s rays fall directly on the deity’s feet twice a year. The Srikurmannatha Temple at Srikurman, 13 km (8 miles) east of Srikakulam, is dedicated to Kurma, the tortoise incarnation of Vishnu. It was built by the Chalukya kings in the 10th century but was substantially rebuilt by the Cholas in the 12th and 13th centuries. The colonnade around the main shrine has 19th century murals of Krishna and Vishnu. Mukhalingani, 46 km (29 miles) north of Srikakulam, was the first capital of the Eastern Ganga kings, before they moved to Orissa . The temples here date to their reign, between the 9th and 13th centuries. The best preserved is the 9thcentury Madhukeshvara Temple, with magnificent sculptures of Shiva and friezes of scenes from the Krishna legend. The 10th-century Someshvara Temple, at the entrance to the town, has beautiful statues of river goddesses and other deities, flanking the main doorway.