IN THE VALLEY of the Lidder Inver, Pahaigam is on the southern slope of the Great Himalayas. It is the base for several treks to Kishtwar and the Sum Valley and for the pilgrimage to the holy cave of Aanarnath , the destination of several thousand Hindu pilgrims, every August. Pahalgam , dotted with mustard fields, also offers trout fishing, golf and short expeditions into the nearby mountains. The road from Srinagar to Pahaigam passes by Bampore, famous for its fields of saffron (Crocus sativa), which has been cultivated in Kashmir since the 10th century. The saffron fl ower blooms in late autumn.