THIS IS LITERALLY the middle island among the Andamans trio. Large tracts ofits interior are a part of the highly protected Jarawa Tribal Reserve. The Jarawas, traditionalhunter-gatherers, are probably the last racially pure tribe left in India. TheAndaman Trunk Road winds along the island’s spine, running from Port Blair through Bharatrang Island to Middle Andaman. But with the welfareof the Jarawa in mind, only restricted public transport is encouraged. The area aroundRangat is lush with tropical forests; the town itself has onlya few provision stores. Rang Bay is the point of departure for ferries to Port Blair andHavelock and Long Islands. Just 15 km (9 miles) away, Cuthbert Bay is a sanctuary for hundreds of marine turtles, which arrive here annually to nest. Mayabander, at thenorthern tip, 71 km (44 miles) from Rangat, is a beautiful spot. Some of its beaches, such as Karmatang, arefamous for their spectacular sunrises, and are also nesting grounds for marine turtles.