THE CANTONMENT TOWN of Lansdowne, is one of the few hill stations that has managed to remain wonderfully unchanged over the last century. Away from the main tourist circuit, the town has been spared the frenzied building and modernization that has crept into other popular destinations. A loosely spread out jumble of bungalows and shops, it is set on gentle forested slopes of pine, and silver deader oak. The Army’s Garhwal Rifles have their regimental centre here, and a visit to the beautifully maintained regimental mess is a must. A pleasant walk leads to Tip-n- Top, a lookout point 3 km (2 miles) from town, which offers excellent mountain views.