ONE OF INDIA’ S oldest forts, Kalinjar was called Kanagora by Ptolemy, the 2nd-century AD Egyptian geographer. Its strategic location on the route between North and South India made it a coveted target for many rulers. It has thus had a very turbulent history, and was successively occupied by many medieval rulers, until it fell to the Afghan ruler Sher Shah Sur in 1545 . Seven gateways, named after seven planets, and lined with sculptures and carvings lead to the fort. These include a giant Shiva with 18 arms and a dancing Ganesha. The Neelkanth Temple inside the fort, is dedicated to Shiva. Still in worship, the temple’s inner sanctum contains an ancient linga.