TIHIS REMOTE, relatively unknown town boasts some unexpected artistic treasures. Dominating Dungarpur is the seven-storeyed Juna Mahal, built in the 13th century on a large rock. The interior of this palace-fort, in contrast to its rather battered exterior, glows with exuberant ornamentation, and contains some of the most beautiful frescoes to be seen in Rajasthan. Remarkably well-preserved, these include a series of erotic paintings from the Kama Sutra in the erstwhile ruler’s bedroom, on the top floor of the palace. The 19th-century Udal Vilas Palace beside a lake, is built of local grey-green granite in a blend of Rajput and Mughal styles. Rising from the centre of its courtyard is a fantastic four-storeyed pavilion with cusped arches, densely carved friezes, and a profusion of canopies and balconies. The large room on its top storey is inlaid with a variety of semiprecious stones.