SITUATED ON the Mahanadi Cuttack is Orissa’s most populous city, and was its capital from the 10th century onwards until 1956, when the capital was moved to Bhubaneswar . There is little evidence today of the city’s historic past. The gateway and moat of the 13th-century Barabati Fort, in northwest Cuttack. arc all that remain of this great citadel which once had a nine-storeyed palace. The eastern part of town is more interesting, with silversmiths’ shops in Balu Bazaar and Nayasarak, where Cuttack’s famous silver filigree jewellery is made. Nearby, in the shops on Jail Road, the full range of Orissa’s beautiful handicrafts are available, including ikat silk, carved hornware and paintings. In this area, a cluster of green domes marks the 18thcentury Kadam Rasul Mosque, where the Prophet Mohammed’s footprints are carved on a round stone.