ONE OF MUMBAI ‘S most fascinating and lively areas, Crawford Market, now renamed Mahatma Jyotiba Phule Market, lies to the north of Victoria Terminus. Designed by William Emerson and completed in 1869, this architectural extravaganza of Moorish arches and halftimbered gables, topped by a clocktower, consists of a large central hall with two wings. Tiers of wooden stalls display nearly 3,000 tonnes of fresh produce daily, from fruit and flowers to fish and exotic birds. The floor is paved with stone from Caithness in Scotland, which remains cool through the day. The lamps are shaped like winged dragons. Above the entrance doors, the charming marble bas-reliefs depict scenes from market life. They were carved by Lockwood Kipling father of the writer Rudyard Kipling, as was the fountain in the courtyard exuberantly decorated with Hindu river goddesses and animals.
Just west of Crawford Market is Zaveri Bazaar, where diamond, gold and silver merchants have their opulent stores. Northwest of Crawford Market, on Mutton Street, is Chor Bazaar (“Thieves’ Market”), with its fascinating antique and bric-a-brac shops.