THE MAIN commercial centre in souther Orissa, Berhampur is famous for its beautiful handwoven ikat silk, available in its bustling bazaar where weavers sit at their looms. The railhead for the seaside town of Gopalpur-on- Sea, Berhampur is also a convenient base for visiting Jaugarh, 35 km (22 miles) north of the city. Jaugarh has a 3rd-century BC rock edict erected by the Emperor Ashoka following the Battle of Kalinga, after which he had a change of heart. The edict is similar to the one at Dhauli in which Ashoka declares “All men are my children” and spells out his ethical code. A short distance away, at Euguda , is the Biramchinarayan Temple, built in the 17th century, with beautiful murals depicting scenes from the Ramayana.